Everywhere is closed on Saturday 1 May due to the public holiday.Unfortunately the weather puts paid to any plans to make towards the lakes or coast.
The only thing for it was an early lunch and kit up for a nice long walk. We walked to an ancient domaine called Cantelause, situated on a bend of the River Aude around two miles out of Trebes.
There have been people living at this site since Roman times.The landscape is essentally schist limestone with a few vineyards and olive groves.The Mas or farmhouse itself, is clearly located at a water source as there is an abundance of deep green Umbrella Pines and Cypress trees surrounding the ancient buildings and barns.
There is an abundance of rare vivid purple wild orchids growing on open land that used to be vineyards.The changing use of the land, in this area, has been very noticeable over the past five years.
A tremendous acreage of vines have been grubbed up to reduce the overall volume of wine being produced in the Aude.European Directives have provided a financial incentive for viticulturers to change the use of their land. Many of the fields have been given over to wheat, maize and sunflower production. Some of the fields have huge pires of ancient root stock piled up ready for disposal.The landscape is changing and to survive, the landowners are having to adapt to new methods of making an income.Some have converted barns into tourist accommodation and introduced local wine itineries.
There is still a strong emphasis on Sunday being a day of rest here in Trebes. Apart from the bread shops and tobacconists,which are open for only a few hours on a Sunday, everywhere is closed.
This is the time of year when the best "Vide Greniers" take place. People have "emptied the attic" and sell all manner of goods from small tables in the town squares. We visited Villalier and Palaja, two totally different villages situated two miles outside Carcassonne.
Villalier is an ancient village situated at the crossroads of an old Roman Road which runs from Carcassonne to Minerve and the Montagne Noir. There are still ancient ecclesiatical buildings that dominate the area and many have been converted into Gites. The Vide Grenier is established in the generously spaced centre square and there are at least two hundred sellers trading from the back of their cars and vans. Some are even trading directly outside their front doors with huge garage doors wide open.
Many are selling rather washed out second hand clothes and toys.A number of the elderly residents attract considerable attention as they sell antique furniture, china, post cards and war memorobilia.There is a strong sense of the past as numerous items of farming equipment are laid out on huge blue plastic tarpaulins.Massive hand tools such as lathes, wood planes and pitch forks have been lovingly restored and polished.Small price tags hang from these items indicating an asking price many times their original cost.
The air is filled with the smell of fresh saucisson being cooked over vine twigs in the centre of the square. A vendor sells small cups of wine and coffee at a nominal price.
We move on to Palaja, a commune nestled at the end of the Alairac Mountains. This is, relatively speaking, a new town. Thoughtfully laid out with a large recreation ground and play areas, it would, one would assume, be an ideal place to live for those who commute daily into Carcassonne. The single story walled villas have been built with modest gardens, some with small swimming pools.Many of the houses have been built with rendered breeze blocks and walled around the perimeter with five foot high walls. The huge car boot must have had at least five hundred sellers and traders all within a quater of a square mile.Large trailers opended at the side sell freshly baked bread, Pizza and doughnuts.A cafe area had been laid out to give a relaxing break to the visitors.
Sadly, some of the vendors tables' have nothing more on them then a few pieces of china,bric a brac and old vinyl records. Underneath, a few pairs of old shoes and magazines. There is poverty here, and these events are the only way some extra money can be earned. I am sure that there were current personal belongings being sold as being of no further use.
